Soba Story of Nagano & Yamagata, the Heartlands of Soba
Both Nagano and Yamagata Prefectures view soba as a tourism resource, not only offering soba dining but also enhancing regional revitalization menus aimed at families and inbound tourists through experiential options like soba making experiences. The prominence of soba in these two prefectures is due not only to their status as soba cultivation areas but also to the presence of the Hosokawa family, a daimyo family from the Edo period.
Shinshu Soba (Nagano Prefecture)
Shinshu Soba is defined as soba made with at least 40% locally cultivated soba from Nagano Prefecture. In reality, there are over 30 unique types of soba in the region, each varying in color and flavor. The origin of Shinshu Soba is said to be “Gyōja Soba” from Ina City, which began when En no Gyōja, the founder of Shugendo during the Nara period, brought soba seeds to the area. Moreover, the nationally famous “Sarashina Soba” also has its roots in Nagano. In the Edo period, the Hosokawa family, who dealt with Shinano fabric, opened a soba shop near their Edo residence in Azabu Nagasaka-cho after switching from fabric trading. Notable among Japan’s three great sobas are “Togakushi Soba,” the elusive “Tomikura Soba” from the snowy villages of Iiyama City, and “Kirisato Soba,” grown in the mineral-rich volcanic ash soils of Mount Asama.
Delicious Shops for Shinshu Soba
[Gyōja Soba]
行者そば梅庵 Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 7088-2 Arainouchinokaya, Ina City, Nagano
Reputation: The birthplace of Shinshu Soba; known for its noodle broth flavored with spicy radish and miso.
[Sarashina Soba]
手打ちそば処元屋 Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 587-3 Daimon-machi, Nagano City, Nagano
Reputation: An established shop near Zenko-ji Temple Niomon Gate; popular for its roughly ground homemade flour and two types of soba flour.
[Tomikura Soba]
まぼろしのそば処富倉そば Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 2171-1 Shizuka, Iiyama City, Nagano
Reputation: Uses only soba flour and Oyamabokuchi; all processes are carried out by hand without additives.
[Kirisato Soba]
そば処黒曜 Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 3360-1 Wada, Nagawa Town, Chiisagata District, Nagano
Reputation: Known for its “Dattan Soba,” rich in polyphenols and rutin; uses Kirisato Soba harvested from the soba fields at the foot of Mount Asama.
Ita-Soba (Yamagata Prefecture)
The soba culture in Yamagata Prefecture flourished for two main reasons. The first reason dates back to the Edo period when Hosokawa Masayuki, the lord of the Shinshu Takato Domain in Nagano Prefecture, known as the heartland of soba, was transferred to the Mogami Domain in Yamagata, bringing skilled soba craftsmen with him. The second reason is that the climate of Yamagata Prefecture is well-suited for cultivating soba. Even today, it is customary in the inland areas of Yamagata to serve soba to relatives and neighbors. This soba is served in a shallow box made of cedar wood, hence the name “Ita-Soba” (板蕎麦). Ita-Soba, suitable for enjoying soba in large groups, was also favored as a gift for family members not present.
Delicious Ita-Soba Shops
そば処 明友庵 Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 1432-38 Gojusawa, Oishida Town, Yamagata Prefecture
Reputation: Located on the Oishida Soba Highway; famous for its handmade “Yukikura Soba” using local Oishida gen-soba; known for its voluminous “Shitagetsu Ten Ita-Soba.”
大石田そば きよ Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 736 Yokoyama, Oishida Town, Kitamura District, Yamagata Prefecture
Reputation: A longstanding shop with 35 years of history, proud of its homemade 100% soba; famous for its voluminous ita-soba and Yamagata’s specialty, cold meat soba.
手打蕎麦おんどり Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 255-1 Yamanouchi, Murayama City, Yamagata Prefecture
Reputation: The second shop on the Mogami River Three Difficulties Soba Highway; offers stone-milled hand-made thin ita-soba and thick inaka ita-soba; seasonal mountain vegetable soba is also popular.
Cold Meat Soba (Yamagata Prefecture)
“Cold Meat Soba” is a local dish originating from Kahoku Town in Yamagata Prefecture, featuring country-style soba with strong elasticity, eaten with a sweet cold chicken broth. This dish is characterized by its crunchy texture of mature chicken and a special broth that does not solidify the oil. It originated in the Taisho period when a customer added leftover horse meat to his soba, which was later substituted with chicken meat.
Known for combining the elements of both Japanese soba and ramen, “Cold Meat Soba” has gained attention as a B-grade gourmet and has become well-known nationwide.
Delicious Cold Meat Soba Shops
一寸亭本店 Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 2-11-2 Taniyashooka, Kahoku Town, Nishimurayama District, Yamagata Prefecture
Reputation: Known for its chicken broth soup and perfectly matched firm noodles; cold meat soba is popular all year round; busy with customers from Sendai on weekends.
そば処 ひろ Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 3-10-8 Shimakita, Yamagata City, Yamagata Prefecture
Reputation: Famous for its cold meat soba; known for its rich chicken broth soup.
一寸亭 Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 2-17-2 Yakushimachi, Yamagata City, Yamagata Prefecture
Reputation: An 8-minute walk from Yamagata Station; popular among locals for its meat soba; has a sister store.
Soba Story of Kanto & Kansai
There are distinct differences in soba flavor between the Kanto and Kansai regions, influenced by their geographical and historical backgrounds. The most significant difference lies in the soba broth.
The Difference in Soba Broth Is Due to Hokkaido
In Kanto, a dark-colored soba broth made with bonito flakes is common, while in Kansai, a lighter-colored broth using kelp and shiitake mushrooms is standard. This difference stems from Hokkaido’s geographical position as a kelp-producing area. During the Edo period, kelp was transported via the Sea of Japan from Hokkaido, making it abundantly available in the Kansai region. In contrast, it was harder to obtain in Kanto, leading to a reliance on more readily available bonito flakes for broth. This is why a strong soy-flavored bonito broth has become established in Eastern Japan. In contrast, Kansai favors a delicate kelp broth with light soy flavoring.
Tanuki Soba
“Tanuki Soba” in Kanto typically refers to soba with tempura bits and green onions. However, in some regions, it may also refer to soba topped with fried tofu or mixed tempura. For example, in Osaka, soba with fried tofu is called “Tanuki Soba,” and in Kyoto, soba with chopped fried tofu and thick sauce is also known as “Tanuki Soba.”
Kitsune Soba
“Kitsune Soba” features soba topped with fried tofu. However, what is called “Kitsune Soba” varies by region. In Osaka and Kyoto, soba with fried tofu is referred to as “Tanuki Soba.” The name “Kitsune Soba” is said to be derived from the color of the fried tofu resembling the fur of a fox, and the belief that foxes favor fried tofu.
Soba Story Focused on Ingredients
“Variety Soba” refers to soba that includes ingredients other than buckwheat and wheat flour to alter its color and flavor. A famous example is “Tea Soba,” which incorporates tea leaves. During the mid-Edo period, “Egg Soba” made with eggs was developed, and recently, “Yuzu Soba” incorporating citrus fruits like yuzu has been created, offering unique colors and flavors.
Conversely, there are sobas that simply yet effectively showcase the charms of ingredients from the sea and mountains, used as noodles or toppings.
Tea Soba
“Tea Soba” is a type of variety soba made by adding powdered green tea or other tea leaves to the soba flour. This soba is distinctively green, combining the aroma of tea with the flavor of soba. It pairs well with various broths and toppings, making it especially suitable for summer meals.
Delicious Tea Soba Restaurants
茶蕎麦専門店 和束屋 Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 21 Ido Shohei, Kasagi Town, Soraku District, Kyoto Prefecture
Reputation: A tea soba specialty shop in the Kyoto-Nara area; the most popular is the “Sanpou Kasagi Tea Soba” which allows you to enjoy tasting various tea sobas using more than six types of garnishes.
茶そば専門店 辰吉 Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 3-60-4 Sendagaya, Shibuya Ward, Tokyo
Reputation: Offers the finest tea soba made with Shizuoka matcha.
Kawara Soba (Yamaguchi Prefecture)
“Kawara Soba” combines tea soba, thinly sliced omelette, beef, and green onions, along with lemon slices and chopped seaweed. The cooked tea soba is served on a heated tile with the ingredients, paired with warm broth. Kawara Soba was conceived based on an episode from the Seinan War in 1877, when soldiers from the Satsuma army surrounding Kumamoto Castle cooked vegetables and meat on tiles they found nearby during breaks in the prolonged battle.
Delicious Kawara Soba Shops
長州苑 Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 1-6 Kicho, Yamaguchi City, Yamaguchi Prefecture
Reputation: Located near the National Treasure Rurikoji Pagoda, this shop offers sizzling hot Kawara Soba; popular for the “Shimonoseki Meibutsu Gozen” set that includes a serving of Kawara Soba with fuku sashi and fuku tendon.
瓦そば柳屋 長門湯本店 Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 1325-1 Fukawa Yumoto, Nagato City, Yamaguchi Prefecture, 1F
Reputation: Set in a renovated 70-year-old traditional house within a complex; known for the aromatic smoke of tea soba; uses homemade kinshi tamago made from local Yamaguchi eggs and fresh Nagato green onions.
からと屋 Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 6-1 Karato-cho, Shimonoseki City, Yamaguchi Prefecture, 2F
Reputation: A popular spot at Kamon Wharf in Shimonoseki; known for Kawara Soba and a wide range of take-out items including mitarashi dango.
Hegi Soba
“Hegi Soba,” originating around Uonuma City in Niigata Prefecture and now enjoyed in Niigata and Tokyo, emerged during the Edo period when the thriving textile culture of Niigata utilized funori (seaweed used in textiles) as a binding agent in soba. Characteristically served in a wooden “hegi” tray, it is common to share with family and friends. The soba is neatly arranged in bite-sized bundles on the tray, a presentation known as “teburi” or “taguri,” inspired by the yarn-twisting techniques used in textile making. Unlike typical soba which is served with wasabi, Hegi Soba is commonly served with mustard.
Delicious Hegi Soba Shops
わたや Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 2-3-34 Honcho, Ojiya City, Niigata Prefecture
Reputation: An established shop since 1921, offering traditional methods alongside new ways of enjoying soba; known for its firm texture and quality soba made with select flour and the finest funori from the Shimokita Peninsula.
小嶋屋総本店 Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 758-1 Nakayashiki, Tokamachi City, Niigata Prefecture
Reputation: Over 100 years of history; uses high-quality soba flour and the finest funori; known for its strong elasticity and smooth texture.
東京へぎそば匠 Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 3-13 Yotsuya, Shinjuku Ward, Tokyo, B1
Reputation: A popular store in Tokyo; reproduces traditional Niigata Hegi Soba; known for its strong, funori-infused noodles and unique “taguri” presentation.
Wakame Soba
“Wakame Soba” is “Kake Soba” topped with wakame seaweed as an ingredient. Wakame is rich in dietary fiber and minerals, making this soba popular among health-conscious individuals due to its low calorie yet nutritious profile.
Delicious Wakame Soba Shops
ひのでそば Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: B2F, 1 Nishi 4-chome, Minami 1-jyo, Chuo Ward, Sapporo City, Hokkaido
Reputation: A stand-and-eat soba shop in Sapporo; Wakame Soba is one of the popular menus, appreciated for its affordability and quick service.
あさひ Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 541 Kamiyagi, Yamato City, Kanagawa Prefecture
Reputation: A long-established soba shop famous for its Wakame Soba; warm soba is well-received; has many regular customers.
若菜そば 阪急十三店 Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 2-12-1 Jusohigashi, Yodogawa Ward, Osaka City, Osaka Prefecture
Reputation: A popular soba shop in Osaka; Wakame Soba is a staple menu item; known for its rich broth.
Herring Soba
“Herring Soba” features herring sweetened with sugar and soy sauce atop “kake soba,” and is a specialty of both Hokkaido and Kyoto Prefecture. In Hokkaido, Herring Soba is characterized by its dark, Kanto-style broth made with dark soy sauce. In contrast, Kyoto’s version uses a lighter, Kansai-style broth made with bonito flakes, light soy sauce, and kelp. The tradition of using herring began in the early Edo period when herring was commercialized in Hokkaido (formerly known as Ezo) and brought to Kyoto through Omi merchants. At that time, due to a scarcity of animal protein, the highly preservable herring was extremely valued in Kyoto.
Delicious Herring Soba Restaurants in Hokkaido and Kyoto
総本家 にしんそば松葉 Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 192 Kawabatacho, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto City, Kyoto
Reputation: An established restaurant in Kyoto known for originating Herring Soba; popular for its sweet and spicy herring served with warm kake soba, a Kyoto specialty.
蕎麦・料理 籔半 Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 2-19-14 Inaho, Otaru City, Hokkaido
Reputation: A longstanding soba shop since 1954, offering ‘Nishin Kuki Soba’; popular for its herring sweetened and served on top.
Nameko Soba
“Nameko Soba” is soba topped with nameko mushrooms. Nameko is known for its mucilaginous texture and high nutritional value, particularly rich in dietary fibers and vitamins. Typically, nameko cooked in soy-based sauce is added to broth made from dashi and soy sauce, enhancing the flavor. Adding grated daikon radish as a garnish further enriches the taste.
Delicious Nameko Soba Restaurants
正直庵 Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 6-8-2 Ishiyama Higashi, Minami Ward, Sapporo City, Hokkaido
Reputation: An established soba shop in Hokkaido; popular for its Nameko Soba.
すば Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 182-10 Higashi Minoyacho, Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto City, Kyoto
Reputation: A stand-and-eat soba shop in Kyoto; famous for its Nameko Soba.
赤坂見附 長寿庵 Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 3-20-2 Akasaka, Minato Ward, Tokyo
Reputation: An established soba shop; offers both 75% soba by day and 20% soba by night; known for its Nameko Soba.
Sansai Soba
“Sansai Soba” refers to soba that uses wild vegetables as ingredients. Wild vegetables such as “fuki no to” (butterbur sprout) and “taranome” (Japanese angelica tree shoots) in spring, and ferns like “warabi” (bracken) and “zenmai” (flowering fern), are common. Each type of sansai offers a unique aroma and texture that pairs well with soba.
Delicious Sansai Soba Restaurants
報徳庵 Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 383-1 Segawa, Nikko City, Tochigi Prefecture
Reputation: Set in an old house within the lush Nikko Cedar Avenue Park; popular for its homemade buckwheat soba using 20% flour; the “Tenzaru Soba” allows you to enjoy local wild vegetables with soba.
手打蕎麦おんどり Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 255-1 Yamanouchi, Murayama City, Yamagata Prefecture
Reputation: Uses locally milled soba flour; proud of its seasonal wild vegetable offerings; also features an on-site hot spring.
三たてそば 長畑庵 Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 635-1 Nagahata, Nikko City, Tochigi Prefecture
Reputation: Uses local Nagahata area buckwheat; famous for its “mori soba,” “kake soba,” and “zaru soba”; set amidst a peaceful homestead surrounded by soba fields, allowing guests to enjoy Sansai Soba in a serene setting.
Kamo Nanban Soba
“Kamo Nanban Soba” is a warm soba dish that uses duck meat and green onions as ingredients. Sometimes, chicken is used as a substitute. The meat is grilled, sliced, and lightly sautéed with green onions, then seasoned with dashi and men-tsuyu, creating a delicious broth rich in the umami flavors of the meat.
Delicious Kamo Nanban Soba Restaurants
京都鴨そば専門店 浹 Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 4-10-1 Nihonbashi Kobunacho, Chuo Ward, Tokyo, 1F
Reputation: A branch of a renowned Kyoto duck soba specialty shop in Tokyo; known for its richly flavored duck broth and tender duck meat.
鴨屋 そば香 Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 3-7-19 Jiyugaoka, Meguro Ward, Tokyo
Reputation: A popular soba shop in Jiyugaoka; known for its variety of duck toppings and the distinctive flavor of its duck broth.
並木藪蕎麦 Map/Business Days/Hours
Address: 2-11-9 Kaminarimon, Taito Ward, Tokyo
Reputation: A historic soba shop; popular for its Kamo Nanban Soba; known for the texture and aroma of its duck meat.
